The textile industry in Bulgaria has a serious problem with recycling

Over 92 million tons of textile waste are generated worldwide every year. Less than 15% of this is recycled. The sector is one of the most polluting in the world, ranking third after the food industry and construction.

One of the reasons why the sector is unable to cope with environmental challenges is fast fashion – the overproduction of low-quality clothing with a short life cycle. As a result, reusable products are becoming fewer and of lower quality and value, while the quantities of textiles are increasing.

The EU is already taking steps to transition to a circular economy, but in Central and Eastern Europe this process is facing difficulties, ranging from a lack of funding to non-existent regulations.

Textile waste is growing at an alarming rate

In 2024, 6.95 million tons of textile waste were generated in the EU, or about 16 kilograms per person. Less than 1% of this was recycled. In the same year, the volume of textile waste in Bulgaria reached around 100,000 tons.

Brussels is seeking to tackle the problem through the Waste Framework Directive and other initiatives, focusing on separate collection, reuse, and recycling. A key requirement is that Member States introduce separate collection systems for textiles by 2025, based on the principle of collecting metals, plastics, paper, and glass.

Although the requirement for separate collection of textiles is already enshrined in European legislation, in a number of Central and Eastern European countries, including Bulgaria, there is still a lack of clarity and completeness in national legislation," commented Sirma Zheleva, Sustainable Development Manager at TexCycle and Executive Director of the Bulgarian Association for Circular Textiles (BACT).

According to Zheleva, separate collection systems for textiles currently operate on a voluntary basis.

“This means that there are no mandatory requirements or regulatory mechanisms to ensure stable financing or effective management of the process,” explains the executive director of BACT.

She points out that, until now, the costs of collection, sorting, and recycling have been mainly covered by the proceeds from reusable clothing and textiles. However, as a result of ultra-fast fashion, fewer and fewer products are suitable for recycling, while quantities and costs are rising.

The second-hand clothing market is also changing, with increasing competition from cheap new goods leading to a decline in demand, which in turn further reduces the potential for generating revenue from this activity," adds Zheleva.

Regulatory and financial mechanisms

The sector needs targeted policies and support to establish itself as a viable and effective part of the circular economy.

For separate textile collection systems to function effectively, clear and sustainable regulatory mechanisms need to be put in place," explains the executive director of BACT.

According to her, one possible approach is for municipalities to finance these systems, at least in the short term.

An argument in favor of this option is the fact that, in the absence of separate collection, textile waste ends up in the mixed municipal waste stream, the treatment and disposal of which is a commitment and expense for municipal budgets," explains Zheleva.

According to her, a more sustainable solution to the problem of the lack of regulatory mechanisms is extended producer responsibility (EPR).

Under this model, the responsibility for financing the collection, treatment, and recycling of end-of-life textiles is assumed by the producers and importers of textile products and is based on the “polluter pays” principle.

The EPR principle is enshrined in the European Directive on textile waste management, which entered into force at the beginning of 2025.

Sustainable development initiatives

Current sustainable development initiatives in the textile industry and textile waste management are not limited to regulatory measures.

According to Sirma Zheleva, the sector is actively communicating the need to build and maintain expertise with the capacity to effectively implement measures, both at the institutional level and among businesses and the public.

Awareness of the importance of the circular economy and sustainable consumption requires systematic work to raise awareness among all stakeholders, from children, students, young people, and adults to businesses and the general public," says the director of BACT.

She adds that educational campaigns, initiatives, training, and projects targeting different groups have been implemented for years, creating conditions for long-term change in attitudes and behavior towards textile waste.

Such initiatives encourage the adoption of sustainable practices such as separate collection, reuse, repair, and recycling, and help build more sustainable consumer habits and business models," Zheleva added.

According to her, the role of society and civic participation is key to the success of any sustainable development strategy.

Translated with DeepL.